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Is the input signal on your TV or AV receiver insufficient? Do you want to connect two TVs to one source? Cheap HDMI switches and splitters can be saved.
A simple HDMI switch (from an IO device) can add much-needed inputs to a TV or AV receiver.
Tired of swapping
cable? Did you just buy a new one
Console, there is no place to insert? Want to run the same signal to multiple
? My friend, you need an HDMI switch or an HDMI splitter. They are an inexpensive way to keep your current equipment relevant and useful. But which is which?
Techole launched a $10 2x1 switch. Yes, that is the actual company name.
The words "switch" and "splitter" are often used interchangeably, but the device itself has the opposite effect. We will go into details, but the short version is that the HDMI switch has multiple sources, such as
with
, And allows you to choose (switch) between them to send a cable to the TV. As you may already know, a splitter receives a signal and separates it through multiple HDMI cables.
For most people reading this book, you may need a switch. Although a dispenser is required in many cases, it is not common for ordinary consumers.
The main reason to use HDMI switching is your TV, AV receiver or
The number of resources entered is too small.
For example, your TV has two HDMI inputs, and you have a cable box, a Roku and an Xbox. I'm pretty sure that many of you have Xbox and PlayStation, and have to swap HDMI cables to play games on the other. The switch can also help you. Fortunately, they are not that expensive.
When you buy a switch, please keep some precautions in mind. Get more input than you need. Of course, you may change the streaming media or game console to a new model, but it is also possible that you will get something new and require an additional HDMI input. In addition, some switches have remote controls. In any case, it is not a major event, but it must be convenient.
The switch requires multiple sources (in this case, two game consoles and a laptop), and then sends them to the monitor.
It is important to ensure that any switch you are considering matches at least the resolution and HDMI version of the latest device. Many switches are HDMI 1.4, suitable for 1080p, but not for most 4K. HDMI 2.0 switcher is definitely worth spending more money. Even if your current resource is not 4K, your next resource will definitely be 4K. HDMI 2.0 is backward compatible, but you cannot "upgrade" the HDMI 1.4 switch to 2.0.
4x1 switch. Four inputs, one output to the TV.
If you need a switch urgently, consider the following: HDMI ports on TVs and other devices are not built for repeated connection and disconnection. Whenever you want to switch the signal source, you have to pull out the HDMI cable, which will cause wear and tear on the cable and equipment. The switch will reduce wear, extend the life of the gear, and reduce the trouble of using the audio-visual system.
We currently have no recommendations for specific HDMI switches, but you can find many options on Amazon for only $10 or less.
Please note that if you purchase any features on our website, CNET may share the proceeds.
If you have only one signal source and want to send the signal from that source to multiple TVs, you need an HDMI splitter. Maybe the TV is in a different room, or in the same room, you have a TV during the day and a projector at night. The splitter will copy the signal and send it out via multiple HDMI cables. Some separators are also switches, with multiple "inputs" and multiple "outputs." We will discuss these in the next section.
1x8 splitter: one signal source can be connected to eight TVs or projectors.
If you want to display two monitors at the same time, remember that the maximum resolution of all monitors is
The resolution display is. Therefore, if you have 4K source, 4K TV and 1080p TV, 4K source can only send 1080p. The splitter does not just convert the TV to a 1080p signal.
In theory, you shouldn't have copyright protection issues...in theory. You should be able to send whatever content you want to multiple TVs through the distributor. However, this does not guarantee that you will not encounter any problems.
"
"It's black magic, sometimes it can only be solved by dancing with the HDMI logo painted on the floor with unicorn tears. This is especially true for older monitors and signal sources. Before buying, please make sure it passes HDCP. In the product description in.
1x4 distributor.
Although there are some unpowered splitters on the market, it is better to have a power splitter. They are only slightly more money, and your settings are more likely to work without dropped connections or connection problems.
As with switches, we currently have no recommendations for specific HDMI splitters, but you can find many options on Amazon for only $10 or less.
I mentioned here that some products on Amazon (and elsewhere) are mislabeled. For example, in the splitter link above, some switches are shown, one of which (
) Is a switch, not a splitter, even if the word "HDMI splitter" appears in its description. But now that you have read so far, you will know the difference and can shop with confidence, right?
The names of the separators and many switches will carry the number of inputs and outputs. Therefore, the "1x3" splitter will send one input to three outputs.
At the same time, unlike the above-mentioned mislabeled devices, some devices combine a switch and a separator in the same box. The "4x2" switch is also a distributor, with four inputs and two outputs. It can send any one of the four signal sources to two TVs.
On the commercial side, the number of inputs and outputs has greatly increased, and you can use 16x16 splitters/switches or more. These are usually called matrix switches. CNET's TV laboratory uses 8x8 matrix switches to send multiple 4K HDR signals to multiple TVs for side-by-side comparison tests.
Installing anything in the TV test lab has never been so exciting for me.
Of course, you don't need to worry about these. For most people, only 3x1 or 4x1 switches are needed.
One last thing to remember. Adding any device to the HDMI chain may cause problems. HDMI is a monster, you may stumble upon some combination of unusable signal sources, switches/splitters, cables and displays. What's even more frustrating is that it doesn't work reliably, cutting it off randomly like the most annoying electronic demon in the world. There is no way to prevent this from happening, and it's not common, it's just something to remember. You may need to do some troubleshooting. You may be able to solve this problem by opening the gears in a specific order, but this may not work either. There is no simple solution, just trial and error.
However, in most cases, the switch will make your life easier, and the shunt can be set in certain gears, which is not possible in other cases. Convenient little device, isn't it?
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HDCP is an anti-piracy protocol built into the HDMI cable standard, but it actually does not work well and ruins the viewing experience. Read on to explain how HDCP works, why it can damage the TV and how to repair it.
HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) is a form of digital rights management (DRM). The DRM protocol is designed to protect content creators and distributors from piracy. Different companies and industries use different agreements, but the basic premise is the same: DRM locks in the purchases you make to yourself and your equipment. When you buy a movie on iTunes and can only play the movie on the device that uses your account, you encounter DRM.
Content creators and publishers
Because of the high cost of creating and distributing content, you can get some protection. The problem is that DRM usually makes the lives of honest paying users more difficult-in many cases, it completely destroys the user experience-and does not actually serve as a deterrent. This is the trouble we have encountered in games that require an authorized server to run. If the company goes bankrupt, the authorization server will go bankrupt, and the game will suddenly fail.
In the case of the HDMI standard and digital video, the HDCP DRM standard has brought many unfortunate headaches to ordinary old users, who just want to enjoy their TV and engage in other legal activities.
HDCP is developed by Intel and is used not only with HDMI, but also with various digital video standards such as DisplayPort and Digital Visual Interface (DVI). It provides an encrypted connection between a content output device (such as a Blu-ray player, cable box or streaming device) on one end and a receiving device (such as an HDTV or audio video receiver) on the other end.
HDCP is ubiquitous and built into devices such as Blu-ray players, cable boxes and satellite TV receivers, and built into streaming video devices such as Roku, Chromecast, and Amazon Fire TV. It is also built into laptops and computer hardware, DVRs and other modern HDMI devices.
Although the basic encryption and protocol of HDCP are very complicated and are beyond the scope of this article, the basic premise of its working principle is very simple. There is a licensing agency that issues licenses for HDCP devices. Every HDCP-compatible device (such as a Blu-ray player or Xbox) has a license and can communicate with the receiving device at the other end of the HDMI cable.
The output device displays "Hey, display! Are you HDCP compliant? This is my license, please tell me your license!" The display (or other HDCP compliant device) returns "Why, I am legal! This is my license" !" When the process takes effect, it will happen within a thousandth of a second, and you (the consumer) will not even notice. When you turn on the power of your Blu-ray player or DVR, you can work perfectly with HDTV and live a happy life without even knowing what HDCP is.
Unfortunately, in many cases, HDCP prevents consumers from using their devices and content for completely legal things. If any device in the chain does not comply with the HDCP standard, the video stream will fail.
For example, if you have an older HDTV TV that is not HDCP compatible, you will not be able to watch
Comply with HDCP content. If you plug an HDCP compatible device into an incompatible device, you will see a black screen or error message, such as "Error: Non-HDCP output", "Unauthorized HDCP" or "HDCP error".
Want to turn an old monitor with integrated speakers into a cheap little video box with Chromecast? Sorry, old monitors (despite having HDMI ports) are most likely not HDCP compliant. Unless you want to dedicate a complete computer to the project, you won't be doing any streaming on it.
Want to record your video game sessions or live stream them in real time? Hit or miss. Host manufacturers have done a better job recognizing that players want to record and transmit their content, but HDCP still has problems. The Sony Playstation lineup is a perfect example of solving this problem. Although Sony did release an update for PlayStation 4 in 2014, the update unlocked HDCP when actually playing games, but because the HDCP output is locked at the PS3 chip level, they cannot provide the same update for PlayStation 3. Their only suggestion is to buy capture devices that support component cables and use them instead of HDMI.
Even if we are not actively watching TV or games, we
The HDCP was found to be annoying and disturbing. We have written various tutorials and reviews on How-To Geek, involving HDMI-based products such as Amazon Fire TV. Do you know what cannot be captured due to HDCP? On-screen menu when loading video content. There is a content protection system that prevents you from viewing and promoting streaming devices that can legally provide content to millions of paying customers, which is very unpleasant.
Connecting a Blu-ray player to an old TV, trying to recycle old computer monitors to a small streaming station powered by Chromecast, recording and playing video game streams, or trying to capture menus and screenshots, there is nothing illegal or unethical Provisions. Writing tutorials and guides, but because of the flaws in the DRM protocol, anyone who wants any or all of these things is kept in the dark.
No one needs to buy a new TV, upgrade its perfect audio and video receiver, or spend a lot of money to solve problems that shouldn't exist in the first place. Unfortunately, the only official way to comply with HDCP is to purchase HDCP-compatible equipment.
The most absurd thing about HDCP protection schemes is that there is no HDCP-compliant method that can circumvent it in legitimate use cases. Have
The method recognized or supported by the HDCP authority, if consumers have older devices or legal non-piracy needs to interact with HDCP-compatible devices, they can help consumers in any way.
In order to further aggravate the insult to people, the HDCP standard has been compromised for many years. Manufacturers continue to pay for licenses and include HDCP in their products, not because it actually helps prevent piracy, but because they don't want to obtain licensing agencies and anti-piracy lobbying. So, how do you deal with the obsolescence of HDCP and the now destroyed chaos?
The only way to buy a new TV or abandon a video game project is to solve the HDCP compliance problem, and that is to buy a low-cost HDMI splitter that will ignore HDCP requests.
We really hope we are joking, but this is a secret media center element that can help thousands of consumers, and when we need to take a screenshot of a screen menu to show a menu, we are in How-To Geek The same goes for the secret elements used. The product we are reviewing.
Specifically, we use
($20), because even in cheap HDMI splitters, there is no consistency as to whether they comply with the HDMI standard (even sometimes in products from the same company). Reading carefully and using the Amazon review search function can be of great help in finding cheap separators that other consumers have successfully used.
To use the splitter, simply place it between the output and display device. For example, suppose you have a simple setup and just want to plug the Chromecast into an old monitor. Instead, you can plug the Chromecast into the input on the HDMI splitter, and then use the HDMI cable to connect the output on the splitter to the display. If you have a new audio and video receiver that cannot be used with the old HDTV, please plug all HDMI devices into the receiver, and then place the HDMI splitter between the receiver and the display.
In the photo above, you can see a simple setting on our table, which is used to capture menus and screenshots when viewing HDMI devices. In this example, we feed an Amazon Fire TV Stick into the ViewHD splitter, and then pass the signal to Roxio GameCapHD Pro so that we can capture screenshots on the computer. The place where we put GameCapHD Pro in the chain is where the vast majority of users looking for this solution can plug in the TV.
This is our attempt to capture good screenshots for the tutorial before dealing with HDCP issues.
You can see that screenshots like this will be useless for our purposes. No one wants to see the menu of the device they are considering buying looks like a big ugly error message on the back. In this example, even if we are using a capture tool, you can see exactly what a home user with an HDTV that does not comply with the HDCP specification sees: the part of the video that is not protected by HDCP (menu bar and pause button) ) Delivered, but the actual content has been deleted.
This is the exact same screenshot, but the signal is passed through the splitter, thus eliminating the nonsense of HDCP.
As you can imagine, given that we are keen to provide clever and thoughtful solutions to problems that plague people, how absurd we found that the solution to problems that shouldn’t even exist is to “buy substandard equipment and ignore faulty equipment . Agreement.” Nevertheless, this is exactly what consumers have discovered, and fortunately, whether through bad design or intentional design, there are products that can attract new media players to dialogue with old HDTVs.
Are there pressing technical issues? Send us an email to ask @howtogeek and we will do our best to help you.
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[danman] has been trying various HDMI video streaming options,
. The "HDMI Extender" priced at $40 is actually HDMI to
Converter under the hood.
He had done work on a similar extender before, and later found out that the extender used
Sending the video, he naturally reversed the video and made a tender. But the non-standard format is troublesome. Therefore, when he was provided with a newer version of the same device and started using Wireshark to peek at the data packets, he was pleasantly surprised to find that the output was only MPEG encoded video on RTP. No need to hack.
So far, streaming video from any HDMI output over an IP network has been tricky, and [danman] has always been obsessed with running videos at a cheap price. In addition to the previous version of this extension, he also managed to download
. This will cost more, but it can also be recorded at the same time if needed.
However, none of these can solve the HDMI HDCP encryption problem. you are
For that.
(The Wireshark wizard at your place will notice that we just brushed the title image from the previous version of the project. There is no good image for this. Sorry.)
If the dwarf of hdmi hackers is listening, I would love to see someone make a four-in-one view multiplexer that requires 4 1080p hdmi inputs and a 4k hdmi output. Commercial units are about $1k+.
Such a task would require ASICs (very expensive unless manufactured in amazing mass production) or fast and bulky FPGAs with 5 HDMI ports (not sure if they even make... 2 ports less), which Won't be much cheaper...
Why do you still want to splice 4 HDMI streams together?
It's just a guess, but maybe it's the display of the surveillance camera, or maybe it's a PiP-type transaction for watching sports games. But until cheap hackable products come out, it may be easier and cheaper to use a PC with a GPU or accelerator to process video content.
It may be cheaper to adopt 4K NVR, stream with 4x 1080 h264 IP stream and output 4K HMDI.
If you don’t include HD channel units, you will spend about $300 through a distributor in China, and its design goal is to reach 247.
Prices will drop rapidly in the next 12 months.
Only when the PC is free...Once you increase the cost of the PC, you still have to pay a high budget...
This should not be difficult to do, and it is not that expensive. Use 4 ADI's HDMI receiver chips (unfortunately non-HDCP), an ADI's HDMI transmitter chip and cheap Altera Cyclone IV or CycloneV. The firmware will be very simple. I guess that some DDR will be needed as a frame buffer. Most (all?) Altera Cyclone FPGAs with transceivers (GX) onboard are not enough to pull 5 HDMIs. Overall, this is a very simple product. About a year ago, the management I worked for mentioned this exact same product, but it never succeeded.
Like what... 1 FPS.
You only need at least DDR3 bandwidth to read and write these streams to memory, which is the minimum...If you don't want to drop frames, you may need more bandwidth.
Even a 2k stream is about 8GBps...you need to be within the 32GBps memory bandwidth to be able to read and write 4 1080p and 1 4k stream...without considering the overhead.
Now, once Altera releases an FPGA with onboard HBM/HBM2, you will have enough bandwidth.
What to do now? 1080p60 will not take up so much bandwidth, and 2k or 4k will not take up too much bandwidth. Here are some actual numbers... 1920 pixels wide * 1080 pixels high * 24 bits deep * 60 frames per second / 8 bits per byte = 373MB/s. There is also no pixel subsampling in this calculation. Multiply it by 4 (for writing 4 1080p60 streams) to get 1492MB/s, and then multiply by 2 (for reading 4 streams, because a single 4K equals 4 1080p) to get 2984MB/s. The peak transfer rate of DDR2-400 is 3200MB/s. These figures seem to be very cost-effective to me. A slightly faster DDR2 will bring more overhead. Even 8-bit 4:4:4 RAW 4k video is lower than 2GB/s. Uncompressed 2k video cannot reach 64Gb/s.
Yes, I believe there will be some confusion in my calculations at some point:/
As you seem to know something about the subject, a quick question is somewhat related: What is the division of HDMI input into four HDMI outputs (basically output top left, top right, bottom)? -From the original video feed to the four distinct screens-"Left" and "Bottom Right" "Rectangular Part".
I have no chance to play FPGA (although?), although I may have 4 of them that can extract such "rectangular parts" and output them to the screen (I did not consider the expanded content here, so each "rectangular second" The resolution is 1/4 of the original input.
->If this can be done [cheaply], it is indispensable that I cannot miss; p
I think 1 to 4 is about the same as 4 to 1. Non-fancy video scaling will also be easy. The hardest part of the whole project is designing and building the hardware. As a disposable device, I think it is not cheap. According to 4 sources, HDCP may still be an issue.
Thank you for your quick reply ;)
Current products involve the use of SD cards as storage devices, and some inexpensive "movie players" boxes with HDMI output.
(The video material is also completely ours:)
In addition to HDCP, any tips on ideal BOM and pricing (when purchasing a bottle price [may be [hope] more [hope? ^^]])
Another idea, although not ideal, is to provide a TV with the function of “enlarge the video source” (set one for each screen, which may only make a part of the original video source actually visible on the screen, while the whole is still Sending-Although it is not efficient at all/very hacky/not even sure, if this kind of TV can be provided, it might be a quick hack)
Therefore, the tips are not just welcome, I will dig out the necessary content and try my best to make some suggestions :)
It's hard to say how much the BOM cost... this is not something I do every day. Our prices on FPGAs are also very favorable, so for most people, any numbers I generate internally will be unrealistic.
This is the basic BOM table I tried... Altera Cyclone IV (EP4CE75), one Analog Devices ADV7612 HDMI receiver, one DDR2 (the bigger the better), four Analog Devices ADV7513 HDMI transmitters for FPGA/HDMI devices Proper power supply, EPCS (25P28) boot FPGA, EEPROM (24LC128) for setting, more EDID EEPROM, if you want to run Linux on Nios II, it may be another DDR2, Ethernet or RS232 for remote control. I may be missing something.
You definitely need a good PCB layout staff...DDR and HDMI and Ethernet require specific PCB layout requirements and length matching, proper impedance and termination, etc.
You can ping BlackMagic Design's MultiView 16 to see if it can meet your needs.
The video uses a 27MHz oscillator, and the Ethernet uses a 25MHz oscillator... forget this. All other useful clocks can be PLL locked in the FPGA through these two base frequencies.
Thanks~BOM, I'll dig that one: D
Can you elaborate on what you want to achieve? I suspect that creating a PCB may be the best solution to your problem. Unless it involves a challenge/learning process, be sure to continue :)
of course;)
Some client’s partners told me that he has a video feed (actually a video played on a cheap movie player) with 4 "views" on it, and each "view" must be split into a video Before he can use the HDMI cable (he is currently using 1 to 4 HDMI splitters to display the same content on each screen), he wants to know what is the cheapest way to achieve this
I have already thought of the idea of ordering some cheap "HD movie players" from ebay: split the video beforehand, and then just copy the content to the SD card, and then be read by some movie players. The controls of each player are tied to the uC (or plug in the IR receiver signal line...).. The video we want to play is "synchronized" (if we have the same TV/SD card/movie player as "precise" .. Hope?.. or at least a constant, beware when preparing video content).
Now, in addition to playing the video, I also hope that there is a setting that can act as an RPi in kiosk mode (boot via logo, then no boot log, and then a place where you can run WebGL stuff and interact with GPIO-presumably Chrome ?).. but able to send different output to 4 screens connected via HDMK
=> If it is implemented, I can execute Three.js things on 4 screens at a time, if some custom controllers are used for control, it will be even better (for my/my needs, at least ^^)
(In order to achieve the above "cheap", I thought of using 4 Pis and controlling them via serial or I2C to send commands to the server that is passed and parsed by the application/game running on each Chromium, and then update The screen to reflect the actions and things of the subscriber ;))
and so,
-One of the reasons is to challenge and learn new things (those FPGA...)
– Another reason is.. It will be neat/useful (if there are no devices with over-corrected devices that can accurately handle that thing.. Is it cheaper in some way? :/..): D
What do you think?
A simple and reliable solution sounds like a PC with 4 HDMI ports. They can be mirrored or split. Then use the software video player that extends on all four desktops. I have done this on 2 screens with no problems with a $600 computer.
Yes, it does seem to be a more powerful setting (but expensive :/);)
Video that stretches across the desktop is a simple and effective solution, and it is not difficult for me to handle multiple windows for a custom application instead of only displaying the video (..) later.
Let me see if I can find an "all-in-one" product with the necessary video card:)
Not really, the $40 android hdmi stick based on S905X will decode 4 full HD h264 streams and output 4K video effortlessly
That would require the video to be encoded first. HDMI is not compressed. It may be low-depth, or it may be sub-sampled, but still uncompressed.
High-quality, real-time (low latency), four channels of 1080p video are not necessarily cheap.
If you only have a $40 HDMI to RTP HDMI extender, you can buy...
I see what you did there. I said the quality is very good. You said you are truncating/zooming.
RTP to HDMI MultiViewer (decoding 4 RTP streams into a single 4k output) can be interesting.
Check out HDS 841SL. This is a four-screen viewer, which requires 4 1080p and output one. It can also display all four signals at the same time. Not quite 4k, but very close to what you want to do under $300. Only catch? As far as I know, there is no setting when the screen is divided equally. It may bring a good cracking effect.
Then look at these:
The extractor gear is great.
Never heard of this brand before. It seems that they have some neat equipment that can be used at work.
It looks like a lot of their stuff is SDI...too bad, it's not really consumer friendly. However, I also don't see any 4k support.
The MultiView 4 produced by Blackmagic Design can perform the functions required by the OP. It costs $500 and supports 4k, but also only has SDI input.
Yes... have seen these two. I really want to avoid converting 4 hdmi to sdi before 4k pins. SPLITMUX-4K-4RT is exactly what I need, not that Id wants to pay for $1,600. I am really surprised that the 4k screen does not have 4 1080 hdmi input and has this feature built in.
Check DELL P4317Q. At a resolution of 3840×2160, it can drive 4 independent 1920×1080 signals to the screen, but it only has 2xHDMI, 1xDP, 1xmini-DP, 1xVGA, so you must convert from HDMI or use a different type of input .
There are no 4 HDMI inputs at all, but Numato Opsis (
) Is an interesting platform that supports 2 HDMI inputs and 2 HDMI outputs. It may be feasible to modify this design to make it all as input.
I need an HDMI pass-through type device that also distributes audio to the LR RCA jack, provides VGA output and composite video to the RCA jack. (Essentially HDMI input, HDMI + VGA + CVBS + LR output). No one does this in a unit (I found out). To set up this type immediately, I had to blend various splitters and converters together. This is for mobile DJ/Karaoke consoles, so space is very precious, and multi-unit options will take up too much space.
Known as audio de-embedders, they are all over eBay and Amazon
You also need a scaler to convert digital video to analog video. And it does not apply to any source protected by HDCP, such as DVD or Bluray players.
There is a $20 HDMI splitter to fix HDCP
If you can watch it, you can convert it to analog (:
I can find any number of units to convert the HDMI signal to any single analog output (such as VGA or CVBS), but I cannot provide a unit that can output all formats at the same time, this is what I am looking for. As a mobile DJ/Karaoke host, it would be helpful to put the video signal on the wall-mounted display of the venue and my own singer's lyrics screen. It has the flexibility to output all the most common video signals (HDMI + VGA + composite), which means that I can not only display video in any specific place.
Hi Irishman, teleste has made a box that can do this. They are expensive though. We are using mcc201e, which can even be powered by an HDMI socket, but I don’t recommend this.
1728×1080 @ 30 frames/sec
What F? ! ? !! ??! ? ! Stupid Chinese! :/There is no overscan on the digital signal, why do you want to do this F? :/:/ :(
Oh, and even worse is its 1728×1090. They are tightened in both sizes. It seems that it is not cut off and scanned, but actually resized? So it's not even pixel perfect
Sometimes, the encoder requires the resolution to be a multiple of the macroblock size. For example, since 1920 and 1088 are both equally divisible by 16 (MPEG2 macroblock size), the MPEG2 encoder can input 1920×1088. *Maybe* explained 1728, not 1090. An encoder I have studied adds 8 rows of black pixels to 1088 at the bottom of the image before running the video through an FPGA-based encoding engine. .
I think the overscan is in the HDMI specification, which is attributed to the NTSC tradition in the 1930s.
It looks like the blog post about HDMI extenders has been updated. A new firmware was found, which allows more settings to be changed from the web interface. Obviously, this firmware can also output a more correct resolution of 1920×1090. If the extra pixels are just padding, there is no mention.
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