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If you want a higher resolution on a large screen, this is a good choice, but a non-4K projector is a better choice.
Optoma's UHD30 is
Compatible and impressive
. On a huge screen, the details have reached the desired effect of 4K, and the wrinkles on each face are bigger than life. The projector also does an excellent job of creating accurate colors. Compared with many cheap projectors, the green grass and blue sky are much more realistic. So far, it's not bad, but there are two problems that make it difficult to recommend that you spend extra money to get the extra pixels of the projector.
First of all, UHD30 performance is moderate
, Which is nowhere near the best projector like mine that costs less than $1,000
. In view of the rest of its performance, its image lacks the impact you expect. HDR video also has obvious stripes. Although this is not a trade breakthrough, it does damage the overall image quality.
Does UHD30 look good? Yes it is. The real question is whether it looks good enough to be worth the extra money spent on the HT2050A. For this, I will say no. Don't get me wrong, 4K resolution is great, but other than that, the HT2050A looks very similar, offers similar brightness, and has better contrast.
If you are a true 4K fan and want a super bright projector with accurate colors, then UHD30 is your ideal choice. After all, a screen of 100 inches or larger is the purpose of 4K resolution. In other words, this is not the best value. You can spend less money on the HT2050A and still get excellent images, but the images are slightly softer-unless you see them side by side, you may not notice the difference.
UHD30 is most famous for its 4K resolution. On a 100-inch screen, you will see various textures, wrinkles, hair and beards. When displayed side-by-side with a 1080p projector, the four-fold increase in pixels is very obvious. As you will learn later, UHD30 is not a winner in terms of picture quality.
It also has HDR compatibility, but like all projectors, it has a big asterisk.
Because they lack TV display technology (for example,
. For projectors, HDR signals must be converted for use on displays with much lower dynamic range. Optoma's conversion is excellent
I have made a review before, but, as you will read below, not about UHD30.
UHD30 is almost bright. Even in the darker Eco mode, it is brighter than many of the projectors I reviewed. Since all projectors will get darker and darker over time, out-of-the-box brightness is generally a good thing. If that's your business, it can also provide a huge screen.
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Like most DLP-based projectors, this size has no lens shift. The zoom range is also fairly medium, at 1.1x. This means that for a given screen size, you don't have much scope to place or install the projector.
In the brightest mode, the lamp life can reach 4,000 hours. Call it back to Eco, this may be the time you will use most of the time, up to 10,000. The dynamic black mode changes the power of the lamp according to the brightness of the content, further increasing it to 15,000 hours. However, I noticed that the brightness fluctuates up and down during viewing. It's not too distracting, and I don't mind, but I know someone noticed it and was annoyed by it.
If you plan to use this projector with HDR content, there is technically only one input. It’s no big deal, because I think most people who use this tool will do some kind of home theater setup and will pass
Pass them to the projector.
If that's the way you want it, the USB input is powerful enough to run a streaming joystick, and a 10-watt speaker is built-in to make sound. This is not the ideal way to watch a movie, but it certainly works. There is also a 3.5mm audio output that can be connected to external speakers.
The remote control has a backlight, uses a true Optoma method, and is bright enough to be used as a flashlight or to add oil to your sunscreen.
The HT2050A is not 4K, it is half the price of Optoma, but it is our current best projector choice. I think it would be interesting to see how it competes with 4K projectors at twice the price. 3550i is a direct competitor of Optoma in terms of price and resolution, and I have not yet conducted a comprehensive evaluation of it.
For comparison, I connected two 4K projectors via Monoprice 1x4 4K HDR distribution amplifier and connected the HT2050A to its own streaming joystick. This setting is necessary because the distribution amplifier ("splitter") does not change the resolution, so a single source will send the lowest common denominator (1080p) to all three sources. Then, I checked everything on the 102-inch 1.0 gain screen.
At first glance, these three projectors look very similar. All of these can create bright images with accurate colors. However, after careful inspection, the details of the two 4K projectors will be more obvious. One effect is that people look older. Wrinkles are more obvious, and the texture of individual hair, beard, especially fabric is also obvious. HT2050A is placed side by side on at least one large screen, which looks almost soft in comparison.
Optoma and HT2050A are both very bright, much brighter than 3550i. The projector itself does not look dim, but it is obviously dim compared to the other two. It's great to be able to emit so much light while still having accurate colors. Many projectors sacrifice color accuracy for the output light, and the result is an unsatisfactory image. Therefore, grass looks like grass, tomatoes look like tomatoes, and so on.
However, contrast is where 4K projectors are insufficient. The black level of UHD30 is so bright, even if the dynamic black function and dynamic light mode are enabled, you can hardly call them black, more light gray. The image does not look faded, but compared with the HT2050A of the same brightness, its perforation effect is much smaller.
The contrast ratio I measured on UHD30 is about 859:1. From a perspective, this is less than half the price compared to the price I measured with Optoma's own HD28HDR. The measured value of 2050A is more than twice this value. Generally speaking, especially in contrast, the HT2050A has its own advantages relative to the price of twice the price, and the projector with four times the resolution.
Although the contrast is so disappointing, the HDR performance is not satisfactory. No affordable home theater projector
. They are too dark and lack contrast like OLED.
To offset this. Therefore, all projectors that accept HDR must handle HDR in a way that compresses the high dynamic range to the normal-looking standard dynamic range.
Although the Optoma HD28HDR process works well, it is strange that the company's more expensive UHD30 does not. No matter what the HDR mode is used, any bright gray scale has obvious streaks and noise, and it almost looks like a cheap flat-screen TV around 2004. In addition, there is a lot of random noise in the shadows. From a video purist's point of view, this can be a big problem. However, since there is no real benefit to using HDR on the projector anyway, you can always turn it off in the menu without worrying about this.
UHD30 has many things to like. Bright images with excellent colors are a basic part of a great projector. 4K resolution is very popular, especially the lack of motion blur provided by the UHD30 DLP light engine. In comparison, it makes 1080p projectors look softer.
The problem with UHD30 is the image quality. These problems did not make headlines or spec sheets. HDR streaks and grainy noise in shadows will reduce an otherwise good image.
Compared to any projector I have reviewed, it took me longer to adjust the settings of the UHD30. Most projectors are set once and for all, but UHD30 sometimes needs to be adjusted according to the movie or projection. Keep it convenient.
Therefore, I can't even tell you the settings I use to get the best image, because I have to change it based on the specific content I'm watching. Generally speaking, the "Cinema" mode is a good starting point, and the "Dynamic Black" helps to some extent mask the medium black level of the projector. The detailed HDR settings usually look the best, thus minimizing streaks in HDR content. In some cases, this mode is dimmed, so Bright looks better. Switching between them sometimes requires adjusting the brightness, and surprisingly, also adjusting the gamma setting.
By turning it off, the extra noise and trouble caused by HDR can be avoided. Just make sure to restart the content (return to the show menu and continue) to get a non-HDR feed.
The D65 color temperature mode is slightly warmer throughout the grayscale range, but quite close, never exceeding 500 Kelvin, and usually less than 250 Kelvin.
Under such color temperature and accurate color, the brightness measured by UHD30 I is about 1,634 lumens, which is comparable to
, But this color is more accurate than the projector.
In short, for projectors in this price range, the overall color is very accurate. Red, green, and blue are almost all on top, although the saturation of blue is slightly reduced. Cyan and yellow are also accurate, although magenta is slightly lower than saturation but slightly reddish.
For the projector, the contrast ratio is quite moderate, with an average of 859:1. For comparison,
Is 2,094: 1 and 600 USD
It is basically the same as UHD30 of 716:1. The dynamic black mode can change the brightness of the light according to the content, resulting in a dynamic contrast ratio of 1,396:1.
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By combining Amazon's Alexa with the Logitech Harmony Hub, you can now extend Alexa control to your entertainment center.
in order to
Harmony Center, photo by David Gewirtz.
I am a geek in the entertainment center. Since the establishment of the network, I have been connecting VideoGuide, WebTV, TiVos, DVR, Apple TV, game consoles, speakers and amplifiers together.
Thanks to the API released by the company, Amazon's Alexa product line will soon acquire new home automation skills.
Although the gear mechanism has changed over the years, it has remained the same: switching between devices is always a bit painful.
I probably sold it out. Its price is over $500, but even so, it is worth it because it unifies all these remotes. most. You have to find and download the remote configuration for each device you have, and then use the software on your PC that is basically a drawing program to design and program the screen that will run on Pronto.
When Pronto worked, it was troublesome, and after about five years, it just failed. Fortunately, a better product appeared during this period: Logitech Harmony.
The harmony at the time (in the mid-2000s) was amazing because Logitech solved the multi-remote problem. They are the first company to satisfy entertainment center geeks with a controller. The controller not only has no limit on the number of devices to be controlled, but also makes it very easy to set up everything.
You connected the PC to the remote control via the USB port and ran a program to manage your devices and group them into activities. Not only is it effective, but it also makes it easier for my wife and guests to navigate between all my boxes.
Then, back in 2008 or 2009, we carried out another recreation center renovation. My old high-definition HD TV broke down. We used the high-definition TV as an excuse to replace the old TV to make things more convenient. My wife and I have been sharing a remote control, but we decided that each of us would like to put a remote control on each side of the sofa.
Available, so we bought two. The good thing about the Harmony software is that I can set up the device and activity once, and then download the settings to the two remotes.
Since then, we have replaced it approximately once a year near the entertainment center, but we have not replaced the remote control. We are still using those Harmony Ones to turn on and off the TV and amplifier, switch inputs and control our equipment.
As you know, i am
. We have
. Their most common use is to turn on and off Hue and WeMo lights.
Alexa has become our smart home hub,
. But Alexa has never been able to control a TV or entertainment center. Although we have a few streaming media boxes, the amplifier and two HDMI switches don't have any IoT intelligence. You can only use the infrared remote control to switch the input. Alexa doesn't speak IR.
But harmony is true. The Harmony system has always been good at sending a series of IR commands to enable activities.
For example, to switch from a media center PC to an Apple TV, we need to set our 1x4 HDMI switch to input 2, and our 4x4 HDMI switch must be set to input A and output 3. The TV needs to be set to HDMI 1.
These are all IR commands, and our old version of Harmony One executed these commands almost perfectly. But Alexa cannot communicate with Harmony. so far.
Logitech is very friendly, you can send it to me
, It is an upgraded version of the Harmony One remote control. However, the Harmony Hub that drew our attention most today is the Harmony Hub that comes with Elite. The remote control and hub of the Elite Edition kit are priced at US$349.
The price is $99.
Harmony Hub is a Bluetooth and Wi-Fi device that can transmit IR signals through its own stone-shaped housing or through two IR repeater nodes. The hub can talk to apps on iPhone or Android devices, so you can use your phone as a Harmony smart remote.
Choose harmony techniques.
But more notably
. Logitech created the Alexa skill, so when you say "Turn on Apple TV" to Alexa, the Harmony Hub will respond by performing a programmed activity-in my case, change all the HDMI switch settings I described above .
Treat friendly names as aliases.
When you link it to Alexa through the Harmony Hub's skills, you can also set various "friendly names" for the event. Therefore, although my Roku event is actually defined as "Central: Roku 4", the friendly name I defined is just "Roku".
You can assign multiple friendly names to each event, so you don't always have to call Media Center PC through "Media Center PC". You can also give it "PC" and "computer" as friendly names.
This feature solves another problem that my wife and I often encounter: remembering the equipment we set up for which streaming service. Although Prime Video is only on Roku and iTunes is only on Apple TV, Hulu, Netflix and HBO Now can be used on both-but I only set them up on Apple TV because I am tired of entering username and password .
Using friendly names, I attached "HBO", "Hulu" and "Netflix" to the Apple TV event, and "Amazon" and "Prime Video" to the Roku event. Now, we don’t even have to care about which device is running which device, we can only say "Alexa, turn on HBO" and watch "Game of Thrones" (when the new series finally comes out).
What makes this feature particularly useful is that when Alexa tells the Harmony Hub to change the activity, the Harmony Hub sends the change to the video device and remote control.
Watching this happen is particularly smooth. When I said "Alexa, turn on Apple TV", my various HDMI switches were changed, the Apple TV screen was displayed on the main video screen, and the Harmony app of my iPhone was also changed to Apple TV, and so was the Harmony Elite in this way.
For devices with more options, there are other screens with more buttons and controls.
This means that once a voice command is issued, there is no need to change the input on the remote control. It just works.
However, there is a small fly in the ointment. My old Harmony One remote control does not automatically change the input. Therefore, when Alexa switches to a new device, it is still necessary to make changes on Harmony One.
sigh. We have a Harmony Elite and our iPhone. We must either share Elite or one of us must control the entertainment center through the iPhone app. According to the Logitech Forum,
, But there is also $149
On the other hand, I don't have to set up Harmony Elite from scratch. Logitech’s technical support representative, Ara, helped me import my old Harmony One activities and equipment into Harmony Elite and Harmony Hub. That saves a lot of time.
Most importantly: this is so cool. The combination of a remote control and a hub is expensive, at US$349, but the hub alone as a companion to a smartphone application can be counted as hundreds of US dollars. The family of two faces some challenges, but hey, there is not another incredible picayune first world problem for a week, right?
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Today, we all have a lot of equipment
, But many times we will run out of available ports. In this case, should you get
? We tell you the difference between the two and under what circumstances one should be used.
They are very frequent, especially in PC monitors where there is only video input. If you want to connect both the PC and the console to the same monitor, you must disconnect one cable every time you need to change, and then connect another cable, so these options discussed below will be a perfect solution . For you.
The word "splitter" comes from the English "split", which means division. In other words,
. For example, if we have a PC and want to see the image on the monitor and TV at the same time, so that others can act as bystanders, this will be useful. For example, if we have an Apple TV and want to watch the image on two TVs at the same time, it will be the same.
Therefore, the HDMI splitter will always have
o «Input» (input), it will be the video (and audio) source, and
Or "output", this is where we can connect on the screen where we want to see the image. Therefore, we have a splitter from 1×2 (one input and two outputs) to 1×16 (one input and sixteen outputs), and of course it will go through 1×4, 1×8, etc.
HDMI splitters do not have any operation, that is, they will always send out all the signals that enter them through the input, without exception. It must be said that there are passive distributors, they do not require additional power, but the usual thing is that their quality is limited, so the normal thing is that they are active and we need to connect them to the socket.
It is the opposite in the physical sense of a separator: it has
. To give you an idea, almost all TVs have an internal HDMI switch, so they have several HDMI ports, we can connect them to different devices, but all these ports can be seen on the TV screen.
For example, if your PC monitor has only one HDMI input, but you want to connect the PC and game console at the same time, this method works. The switch allows you to connect both devices to the same display and switch between one and the other signal source with the push of a button. Therefore, unlike the splitter, the HDMI switch
(There are even models with remote control function)
In this case, most HDMI switches are passive, that is,
. The reason for this is that they do not have to multiply the image in multiple outputs like a splitter, but only limit themselves to always sending one or the other input signal through the same output. For this, HDMI itself already provides all the needs energy of.
Some devices can use splitter and HDMI switch at the same time. Since users either have one need or another, and they rarely appear at the same time, they are usually scarce, and due to internal complexity, they are much more expensive. In any case, these devices have multiple inputs and multiple outputs, and have a physical button to switch from one source to another.
In this case, the splitter + switch behaves as follows: we will select the input source, and no matter what we choose, it will copy it to all outputs. What can this be used for? Well, combine the above. Imagine, as we did before the example, we want to copy the image seen on the PC to the TV so that our friends can see it. Well, by connecting this device to the same monitor and the same TV and allowing us to use the console at the same time, we can perform the same operations on the console
In summary, let us see under which circumstances one or the other of these products should be selected: